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Landlords are counting on emerging restaurant brands like Lazy Dog, Gen Korean BBQ and Postino Wine Café to draw customers back to malls. So-called “eatertainment” concepts such as Puttshack and Topgolf, which can extend the amount of time people spend in a mall, are expanding. One fast-growing chain targeted to families, Kura Revolving Sushi Bar, delivers plates to diners on conveyor belts as rolling robots serve drinks.
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With a spartan interior and bustling dining room, Mapo Galbi is a spicy chicken specialist, grilling tender chicken thighs cut into smaller pieces along with cabbage, rice cakes, carrots, and plenty of gochujang sauce. The whole pan simmers and reduces over time, with servers finishing meals with a fried rice loaded up with perilla leaves and seaweed laver. Korean barbecue has become an integral part of Southern California’s culinary and cultural fabric. There's something appealingly primal about the experience — grilling rosy-red slabs of impossibly well-marbled beef atop hissing coals.
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The included galbijjim isn’t world-beating, but it’s nice to have on the table. Servers grill better-than-average meat (don’t expect Park’s or Chosun-level) but the whole table filled with dozens of different bites is what makes Hanu a fun meal. When Akira Back, who has multiple restaurants in Asia and Las Vegas, opened a steakhouse in LA, the original idea was to do a sort of Korean fusion with a focus on grilled beef. Now it’s an unabashed high-end Korean barbecue, with banchan and requisite side dishes that give it a complete Koreatown-style experience, only more west. At the moment, there might not be a more impressive place for Korean barbecue, from the sleek ambience to the helpful service.
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Now with two locations in Koreatown, Jinsol Gukbap has made a name for itself for its rich, flavorful Busan-style gukbap, or pork soup, which is made with a broth that is simmered for 24 hours. Though the gukbap is undoubtedly the star here, other favorites include the pork belly slices, served with a special soy-based sauce, kimchi stew with pork belly, and marinated spicy pork ribs. For those looking to venture outside of pork, you can’t go wrong with the spicy braised chicken with vegetables or the cold noodles. Seafood staple Soban can do no wrong, serving up an amazing array of banchan to begin each meal.
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Using a similar wide cast iron grill that allows the juices and fat to slowly season and flavor spicy bean sprouts, onions, and kimchi to the sides, the show's star here is thick-cut Korean samgyupsal, or pork belly. The combinations here are very reasonable, about $100 for the combination beef and pork tasting that easily feeds four people. At this point, there’s no better old-school Korean barbecue spot in Los Angeles. With two locations in Koreatown, this late-night galbi-jjim destination serves the dish with tender chunks of short rib, chewy rice cakes, and tons of spice.
Strong restaurants and entertainment options draw steady food traffic and can increase the amount of time a consumer spends in the mall, making them valuable to landlords and other mall tenants. Over the last few decades, malls became the town center of many American communities. But the pandemic, over-building and a move by consumers toward discount and online shopping changed all that.
The House that Tofu Built.
Add to that the beer- and soju-fueled conviviality that’s characteristic of the cuisine, and it's easy to see why Korean barbecue has become an enduring part of dining in LA. Here now are 18 of the finest KBBQ spots around town, from high-end premium restaurants to everyday all-you-can-eat extravaganzas. The team behind the Korean fried chicken spot Chimmelier brings Jilli, a modern Korean pub that serves up creative anju and small-producer soju and makgeoli. Though its menu boasts an array of intriguing bites like honey butter chips, a creamy tuna dip with crackers, and chicken baos, diners can’t seem to get enough of the rigatoni alla kimchi vodka. As for must-order drinks, the Angma Two Flower Makgeolli is a lightly carbonated, slightly sweet iteration of Korean rice wine that is brewed in Los Angeles.
Jeong Yuk Jeom Korean BBQ LA
After a few drinks, tax, and tip, expect to pay around $60 a person, which is a solid deal these days. When people ask what the best Korean barbecue is in Los Angeles, most people will mention Park’s BBQ first. It’s hard to argue against over 20 years of excellence, with an energetic vibe inside and fantastic meat quality from start to finish. Chef and owner Jenee Kim does an amazing job with the non-meat dishes as well, like the delicious spicy braised black cod or the gochujang jjigae. Bringing a taste of the infamous, Michelin-recognized Myung Dong Kyoja from Seoul, MDK Noodles offers the same classics from the carb-laden menu, including knife-cut noodles with chicken, anchovy, or vegetable broth. Don’t skip on the pork dumplings, and for those who aren’t in the mood for something soupy, the cold noodles with skate are a refreshing option.
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As U.S. malls race to reinvent themselves, they’re turning to sushi conveyor belts, craft-beer membership clubs and Korean barbecue to replace burgers and fries.
Jeong Yuk Jeom is a good high-end KBBQ alternative for those who are tired of Park’s, Daedo, or AB Steak and want to try something new. Classic Korean barbecue Soowon might get a little overshadowed by its neighbor Park’s BBQ down the street, but the longtime restaurant still excels with high-quality beef and attentive service. The cloudy bone marrow broth here is legendary, as are the tender slabs of brisket and various organ meats floating in it. Build the meal with seasonings, kimchi, and rice, along with a dash of salt and sprinkling of green onions. Longer dry aging means more concentrated flavor, sharper aroma similar to aged cheese and meaty texture. Chef Akira Back suggests to enjoy our steaks with our various homemade salts and condiments to enhance the flavor.
“A lot of these regional malls are rebranding their spaces to attract restaurants,” Kim said. Many quick-service restaurants like McDonald’s and Chick-fil-A have closed mall locations. Koreatown loves soondubu, the silken tofu stew popularized at places like BCD and Beverly Soontofu.
This very intentional Korean barbecue spot from Seoul serves just American-certified Angus prime beef, and only ribeye steaks at that. Seared on specialized cast iron skillets, diners will try ribeyes sliced into three distinct cuts and served with kkakgudi and other banchan that are fermented in Korea and shipped to the U.S. It makes sense that the former Honey Pig space would become another Korean barbecue restaurant dedicated to pork.
The restaurants have big wooden beams and a bar with craft beers in their center. Mall landlords and analysts note it’s a big blow to lose any big-name anchor eatery. But Macy’s, JCPenney, Nordstrom and others are closing hundreds of their stores in malls as online shopping has grown to around 16% of US retail sales. Real estate research firm Green Street estimates about 150 enclosed malls have closed since 2008, leaving about 900 today. Experience our Assorted Tofu Soup that comes with beef, shrimp, and clam, served in a bubbling hot-stone pot.
Expect lines at one of Koreatown’s more popular new restaurants, which has a wide menu of soup-based dishes, including gukbap, seolleongtang, and yukgaejang. The chilled beef broth paired with freshly pressed buckwheat noodles is easily one of the most refreshing Korean dishes. On the other end of the heat spectrum, shareable jeongol like mukeunji pork ribs pack tons of umami from long-fermented kimchi simmering on the table while diners eat. Everything about the meal, from the banchan to the finishing fried rice on the tabletop grill, is engineered for maximum flavor. This restaurant might be on the small side, but it serves up well-crafted traditional Korean dishes with huge flavor. The braised short ribs are a table-pleaser, along with the strong pot bibimbap.
The spicy-braised mackerel is a show stopper, with layers of rich flavor that go perfectly when spooned over multigrain rice. Koreatown’s longtime mom-and-pop (in this case, mom-and-son) restaurant Jun Won Dak is serving up some of the city’s best samgyetang, a comforting cold-weather soup of ginseng chicken. Hanu’s trick might be the banchan robots roaming the space, but the restaurant placed on the ground floor of one of LA’s larger spas serves some of the neighborhood’s best Korean barbecue menus. The smallest combination feeds potentially four people, and comes with an impressive array of jun, or fried vegetables and fish filets, and even galbijjim as a part of the package.
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